Blessed with scorching summers and snowy ski slopes, Bulgaria is the ultimate destination for all seasons.
A cultural treasure trove stuffed to bursting with ancient monasteries, churches, mosques and Roman and Byzantine ruins, Bulgaria is located in the very heart of the Balkan Peninsula. It is bordered to the north by Romania, to the east by the Black Sea, to the south by Turkey and Greece, and to the west by Yugoslavia and Macedonia.
The first Bulgarian state was formed when the Bulgars, a Central Asian Turkic tribe, merged with the local Slavs in the late 7th century.Afterwards Bulgaria struggled with the mighty Byzantine Empire to assert its place in the region and, by the end of the 14th century, it was overrun by the Ottoman Turks. Bulgaria won back its independence in 1878, but after fighting on the wrong side in both world wars it then fell within the Soviet sphere of influence.
Since its escape from the yoke of communism Bulgaria has struggled to join the modern world. It became a member of NATO in 2004 and is due to join the European Union on 1st January 2007. Today, like many of its neighbours, it’s a country that retains a charming mixture of the old and the new. Despite the economic hardships Bulgaria has faced, its people are very friendly – and these economic pressures have also conspired to make Bulgaria amazingly cheap for Western European visitors.
Geography and climate
More than half of Bulgaria is hilly or mountainous, its average elevation being about 480 metres.The great Balkan mountains stretch across the country from the northwest corner to the Black Sea, where its coastline is littered with giant bays.
Bulgaria has a temperate climate, with chilly, damp winters and baking dry summers. Bulgarian springs, when a great many of its cultural events take place, are mild and pleasant. From the middle of June to September you can bet on sunny weather for walking and bathing. Skiers in Bulgaria enjoy a season that starts in the middle of December and lasts until late March.
The capital is Sofia. Almost completely rebuilt after the bombings of World War II, its city centre has a weird and wonderful mix of architecture – right down to a yellow-brick boulevard. Compact and diverse, it’s a place that really comes alive in good weather, and ugly communist-era buildings are now giving way to laid-back markets, cinemas, restaurants, discos, museums and gardens. The 14th-century church of St Petka Samardjiiska, with its beautiful frescoes, is one of Sofia’s most famous landmarks. Mount Vitosha, which hulks over the city’s southern suburbs, is a popular winter ski resort, while summer tourists admire it from the chair lift.
Southwest Bulgaria is dominated by the Rila and Pirin mountain ranges. Cloaked in forest and bathing their feet in great lakes, they form Bulgaria’s highest, most storm-torn peaks. In good weather it’s a beautiful area to hike and trek in.
North of Sophia is the Balkan range, Bulgaria’s longest mountain chain, which flows down to the Danube. In the summer the lowlands are ablaze with sunflower fields, while the rural northwest is peppered with beautiful villages snuggled between the mountains. The area is also famous for Lake Srebârna, a reedy wildlife haven for waterbirds, and the Rock Monastery of Ivanhoe and its fresco-decorated caves. The main city here is Ruse, a thriving place with a Central European feel.
Tourism and culture
In the Sredna Gora mountains, south of the Balkan chain, are some of the country’s most historic towns and villages. This region is home to the beautiful Valley of the Roses, named after its huge rose plantations. Also famous for its mineral springs, the landscape takes in spectacular gorges and steep rocky slopes that open on to tiered fields and pine forests. Further south still lie the Rodopi – the greenest and most picturesque Bulgarian mountains. Here you’ll find snow (and skiing), sun, clean air and a mild climate.The Rodopi region is strongly influenced by the Mediterranean and it offers superb cuisine.
For sun and sea you head for the Black Sea coast. The northern region boasts clean, calm and shallow seas, wide beaches with fine-grain golden sands, venerable forest and numerous mineral springs. The southern section of the coast is home to picturesque bays, spacious beaches, dunes and a warm sea. There are many large, purpose-built resorts along the coast’s whole length, but the region has many peaceful towns and villages, too.
GETTING THERE
- AIR - There are very few direct flights to Bulgaria from the UK. British Airways (08708 509850; www.ba.com) flies from the UK to Sofia as does Balkan Bulgarian Airlines (www.balkan.com). The other option is to fly to Budapest or Istanbul and then continue on to Bulgaria overland or via a connecting flight. easyJet (www.easyjet.com; 08712 442366) has cheap flights to Budapest from various UK airports and Turkish Airlines (020 7766 9300; www.turkishairlines.com) offers frequent flights from London to Istanbul.
- RAIL - It is possible to get to Sofia by train by taking the Eurostar (08705 186186; www.eurostar.com) to Paris and from there travelling on to Sofia via Budapest, although it can be a long and uncomfortable journey. Contact Rail Europe (08708 302008; www.raileurope.co.uk) for more details. Getting around Bulgaria by train is fairly straightforward and trains go to most towns, although they aren’t exactly speedy. Contact Bulgarian State Railways (www.bdz.bg/eng/index_eng.htm) for more details of services.
- ROAD - It is possible to drive to Bulgaria via Belgrade. Borders are generally open but it is important to check prior to departure and the police strictly enforce posted speed limits. Although you can drive in Bulgaria using your British licence, you should also take your log book and all paperwork with you. If you are planning on staying longer than six months you will have to secure a Bulgarian driving licence. Motorway 1 runs from Sofia to the border with Turkey and the 772 runs from Sofia to Varna. The 87 runs along the Black Sea coast. Roads are in bad condition and many carry more than one number, which can cause confusion. To rent a car you have to be over the age of 21 and drivers under the age of 25 may incur a young driver surcharge.
- COACH - Eurolines (08705 808080; www.eurolines.co.uk) offers services from Paris to Sofia and National Express (www.nationalexpress.com; 08705 808080) offers a direct service to Sofia. In Bulgaria itself there are a number of bus services between the major towns and cities.