Despite being closer to Africa than Europe, Madeira is very much a part of Portugal. Judy Darley and her new husband discover the island’s romantic side.
Long beloved by British holidaymakers, Madeira is an island of exotic flowers, friendly locals, and more than its fair share of luxury hotels. An evocative mountainous landscape is a constant reminder of the island’s volcanic origins, while the Atlantic Ocean is visible from every terrace and balcony.
Reputedly first discovered by an eloping couple shipwrecked on its shores, Madeira whispers legends from its valleys to its peaks, making it the ideal location for an unforgettable romantic escape.
Choosing the location for the perfect honeymoon isn’t an easy task, even, or especially if one half of the newly wedded couple is a travel writer. Prior to our wedding on May 25th 2007, James and I looked at countless destinations, considering Mexico, Hawaii and the Azores, before coming across a brochure about Madeira.
Described rather deliciously as a ‘floating garden’, the island seemed to be largely overlooked by the crowds of tourists who descend on other tropical isles. The lack of easily accessible beaches is a big part of that, but my husband-to-be and I have never been fond of lounging in the sun, favouring exploratory holidays in beautiful locations. Madeira seemed ideal, and five days after becoming Mr and Mrs, we caught a TAP flight from Gatwick, and landed on the island’s tiny runway just over three hours later.
Our first impression of Madeira was how lusciously, exotically, green it is, with volcanic hills rising steeply from the Atlantic. A fifteen-minute taxi ride from the airport to Funchal would once have meant several hours of traversing the hummocky terrain, but today a network of tunnels have cut this journey down to fifteen minutes, with sea views offered at every turn. Our destination, Estalagem Quintinha de São João, was one of the many hotels that were once the grand homes of wine merchants.
As honeymooners, we were benefiting from the hotel’s romantic package, which meant we were allocated a vast suite overlooking the pool, and found a bottle of champagne in our living room on arrival. As we stood on one of our two balconies admiring the dramatic mountains beyond the pool, we breathed in deep and discovered an aroma of flowers and herbs, something we would enjoy wherever we inhaled over the next six days thanks to the profusion of plants blooming in Madeira.
On our first day, we caught a taxi to Funchal’s harbour where we met the crew of the Gavião, the yacht that was to take us to the Desertas Islands. There were six other passengers, including a pair of Spanish ornithologists who spent the entire three-hour journey looking out for seagulls and other birds wheeling over the waves.
The sea was like silk as we set off, a deep, rich blue with scattered sequins where the sun hit its smooth surface. As we left Madeira’s shores further behind, the sea grew increasingly tussocky, and after a couple of hours the Desertas Islands appeared on the horizon, looking disconcertingly sinister.
A dense, dark cloud hung over much of the island, casting a cold shadow over the sea, and, as we neared the small harbour, our yacht. The island is one of Madeira’s five Nature Marine Reserves and home to 30 monk seals, of which there are only 500 in the whole world. The animals are notoriously timid, and we didn’t see so much as a flipper in our time there. We took a dinghy to shore and meandered along the pathways, cautious not to stray and damage any of the rare native plantlife. As well as plants, the reserve is famous for its tarantulas, but the only wildlife we saw were tiny green indigenous canaries, and the researchers who live in cabins on the beach for weeks at a time.
On our way back to Funchal, our captain made contact with a tourist vessel that had come across some dolphins, and we sped over to see them. They darted around the prow of the boat, dark and sleek and beautiful in the astonishingly clear water.
In the morning we walked the fifteen-minute route to the town centre, enjoying the fact that the layout of the town means that everything is within easy strolling distance, with the main attractions at the lowest point, spread along the waterfront. There’s a lot of building work happening in Funchal, but glowing pink swathes of bougainvilleas and purple jacaranda trees brighten the profusion of concrete, while the central streets are patterned prettily with white marble and black basalt cobble-stones.
We indulged in a full programme of sightseeing, starting with Blandy’s Madeira Wine Lodge. This sweet-smelling series of buildings houses vast barrels of wine, with the youngest stored in the attic where the heat of the sun improves their caramel flavours, perfect for offsetting the rich, moist Bolo de Mel cakes.
This was followed by a visit to Mercado do Lavradores, close to a bridge where the island’s most copious residents sunbathe; beautiful bright green, orange and brown lizards with long tails and sweet little faces. The market is a bustling, colourful place, with piles of gleaming fruit, vegetables and flowers pawed over by locals and tourists alike. At the insistence of one stall owner, we tried slices of pale creamy custard apples with knobbly green skins like a turtle’s shell.
For panoramic views of the town, we rode the cable car from the waterfront to Monte, a peaceful ten-minute swoop over the houses and terraced green hillsides, coming to halt just outside the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens.
This is the perfect place for a romantic stroll, exploring the shady paths and stepped walkways, and admiring exhibitions of African carvings. A lake of koi fish entranced by the patter of multiple waterfalls provides a sense of tranquillity, as exotic dragon trees bleed red sap and Love Flowers glow blue against the deep green foliage, adding splashes of colour.
The Japanese Garden is home to a number of serene statues of Buddha, while in other areas sculptures, ancient panels of traditional tiling, and the largest vase in the world can be found among the leaves.
Then we were ready for our toboggan ride down the steep hill, steered by two men dressed in white and wearing straw hats. The descent is rather undignified, but great fun; a hilarious journey of twists and turns that must have seemed terrifying to the 19th-century ladies who once used this method of transportation, before being carried back up the hill in hammocks.
The final treat of the day was a trip to Cabo Girão, Europe’s tallest promontory and the second highest in the world - standing 580 metres above sea level. Breathing in the scent of eucalyptus trees, we stared down the dramatic cliff to the deep turquoise of the Atlantic Ocean, stretching all the way to the horizon to meet the vivid blue of the sky.
On Sunday morning, we woke for the last time in Quintinha de São João, and packed our cases before strolling into town. Many of Funchal’s shops and restaurants were closed, but the 15th-century cathedral was crowded with pious, and curious, people eager to hear mass beneath its ornately carved Mudejar roof.
Then it was time to leave the city and head for the Choupana Hills Resort and Spa, where we were indulging ourselves for our final day on the island. As soon as we’d checked in, we headed for the resort’s leisure facilities, wallowing in the indoor pool with its bubbles and the outdoor infinity pool fringed by palms, with dragonflies darting overhead.
As the shadows began to lengthen, we hurried back to our room, planning to change and return to the hotel’s Basalt Bar for cocktails, only to discover that as well as performing the turn down surface, the chambermaids had left us a chilled bottle of champagne and a plate of sliced tropical fruits.
Retreating instead to the balcony, we sat sipping our fizz and watching the sky turn gold and crimson above Funchal bay as the sun sank beyond the mountains. As the city’s lights sparked on, the final traces of colour ebbed from the sea and darkness took over.
My husband and I smiled at each other and vowed to return. What better way to celebrate our future wedding anniversaries?
MADEIRA ESSENTIALS
Where to stay
Estalagem Quintinha de São João
Rua da Levada de S. João, 4 9000-191 Funchal
Tel.: (+351) 291 740 920
Web: www.quintinhasaojoao.com
A 43-room renovated manor house popular with older couples and honeymooners. Rooms from €145 per night.
For more on this hotel, click here
Choupana Hills Resort and Spa
Travessa do Largo da Choupana, 9060-348 Funchal
Tel: +351 291 20 60 20
Web: www.choupanahills.com
An exotic 62-room retreat with individual stilted bungalows ensuring a private haven where staff cater for your every need. Rooms from €275 per night.
For more on this hotel, click here and here
Estalagem Quinta da Bela Vista
Caminho Avista Navios, 4
9000-129 Funchal
Tel: +351 291 706400
Web: www.belavistamadeira.com
A stately 89-room hotel set amid sub-tropical gardens and still owned by the family whose home it once was. Rooms from €212 per night.
For more on this hotel, click here
What to do
Yacht Gavião
Tel: +351 291 241124
Take a sunset cruise, sea life safari or take a day long excursion to the Desertas islands, with prices starting from €23.50.
Monte Palace Tropical Gardens
Caminho do Monte nr. 174
9050-288 Funchal
Tel: +351 291 782339
Lose yourself among the trees, water features and sculptures, from the Japanese Garden to the Laurissilva area.
Santa Catarina Park
Avenida do Infante
Enjoy dramatic views over Fuunchal harbour and immense lawns surrounded by flower beds.
The Botanical Garden
Caminho do Meio- Bom Sucesso
9050 – 244 – Funchal
Tel: +351 291 211 200
www.madeirabotanicalgarden.com
Wander the narrow paths admiring a collection of more than 2500 plant species gathered from all over the world.
The Old Blandy Wine Lodge
Avenida Arriaga,28
9004-519 Funchal
Tel: +351 291 740 110
An opportunity to learn how Madeira wine is made, followed by generous sampling.
Useful contacts
Avenida Arriaga, 18
9004-519 Funchal
Tel: +351 291 211 900
www.madeiratourism.org